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Big Bend TX Area Top 10
For the past 2 years over Christmas and New Year’s, I have spent at Big Bend National Park and the surrounding area. I was looking for a place in the winter to escape the bitter cold that we have each year in Arkansas. I figured if I went as far south in Texas as I could go, it would be warm and beautiful and we would have a great time exploring. Before we left the first time, I had done a little research on the area, taking in some information, as I had never been there before. I wanted to have a clue before we got down there so we could make the most of our time. After being there and seeing it for myself, I have a newfound love for this area of the country and a desire to go back and visit again, as it truly is impossible to see it all in one or two short trips.
Big Bend National Park is located in Southwest Texas along the border with Mexico. The Rio Grande River stretches 118 miles along the border forming the boundary of the park and separating it from our southern neighbors. Big Bend gets its name from the bend in the River at that particular spot where the park is located. It is one of the largest, most remote and least visited parks in all of the United States. It was inducted as an International Dark-Sky Park in 2012 due to its remote location and low level of light pollution. Many measurements have logged Big Bend as having the darkest skies in the United States.
I will offer my TOP 10 things to do, go and see, whether Overlanding or staying in the lodge or a hut. These are just my opinion and my opinion only and not affected by anyone sponsoring this blog or anything given to me for this blog.
I have also asked Gia to integrate her input into this post so that you can get another viewpoint from a female. That way, if you and your significant other are planning a trip to the Big Bend area, you will have a completely different perspective when you both are figuring out what each of you want to do while you are there.
Here are our TOP 10 things to do, places to see with helpful hints (from 2 completely different perspectives) in no particular order…
Description — If you are into hiking or want to take a leisurely walk off the beaten path to see some amazing views and mind blowing sites in the park, you will want to put this on your list. It is not a strenuous hike, so it is good for the entire family. At 2.2 miles and mostly flat, this hike will take you to one of the most unique places in the park, plus the views from around the rock will amaze you.
Our Experience — The drive to the Balanced Rock trailhead is a little rough down one of the dirt roads. It has a few washouts and is bumpy in places, but it can be traveled in just about any vehicle. We decided to head off down this way one afternoon. The parking lot was full, as this is one of the most popular hikes in the park. As soon as we arrived, someone left to depart, so our timing was perfect in finding that valuable spot to park close to the trailhead. It was a leisurely walk on a mostly flat surface until we almost reached the end where the Balanced Rock is located. At that point, you have to climb up rocks, which are steep and require some close attention and agility. If you have young children, you will want to keep a close eye on them around this point.
There is a large area around the Balanced Rock to sit and admire the views. There are also some large rocks where some college students were practicing their climbing skills. It was a nice spot and I had wished we had taken some snacks for a picnic. On the way back we were blessed with some views of a distant thunderstorm rolling through the northern part of the park.
Gia — Balanced Rock was one of my top two Big Bend experiences. We had just been to the visitor’s center at Chisos Basin nestled in the Chisos Mountains (gorgeous, stop by to take in the view of The Window) and wanted to get in a hike. It had been a rainy morning (which is unusual for Big Bend and I feel a treat experience because you get to see the desert in the rain and watch all the plants perk up and the birds become more busy), so we hadn’t done much hiking yet that day. Joey suggested Balanced Rock, and we headed down the rugged Grapevine Hills Road to the trailhead. A minivan blazed past us at one point making us laugh as we were slowing to try to see a male mule deer which had loped across the street in front of us. (If you drive a minivan, know that it can make it down that road.) I changed into my hiking boots as soon as we arrived because of the many signs warning of the potential for twisting your ankles due to the path through rocks. At first, the path meandered along through the valley, rocky slopes rising on both sides. At the far side of the valley, we had to clamber over some rocks as the path made its way up one of the slopes. It wasn’t rock climbing, but it wasn’t far from it. I was grateful I’d changed into my boots. What we found at the top took my breath away and made both of us pause and say, “Let’s not hurry.” Balanced Rock is amazing to see and stand under, and there are many comfortable rocks to sit upon and partake of the view of the hazy mountains rolling into the distance. We took our time, sitting on a rock next to each other, not saying much and enjoying the moment in that scenic spot. We heard a large group making its way up the rocky slope, and we took that as our cue to leave. (Thankfully I made it down the rocks with no twisted ankles. If there were hiking superlatives awarded, I’d receive “Most Likely to Fall”). As we headed back along the valley, we realized we were racing a distant thunderstorm, so we hurried, but I kept getting distracted by how beautiful the storm was. We arrived back to the car and dove in just as large raindrops started plopping around us. Perfect timing, once again!
Description — We had looked online and also on the Alltrails app to see which trails we wanted to hike while there in Big Bend NP. There were so many, and we had so little time, that we had to decide which ones we wanted to do. The Mule Ears trail was one of the longer trails (4 miles round trip) so it fit in with what we wanted to do as far as length.
The Mule Ears (2 tall rocks resembling the ears on a Mule) are landmarks that can be seen from the Rosswell Scenic Drive. This is a fairly easy desert hike approaching the foothills of the Chisos Mountains. The end brings you to ranch ruins that used the spring as a water supply and the flowing spring. To us, with this being in such a remote part of the park, and the desert that surrounded it, it was something we wanted to see. It amazed me how water just emerged out of nowhere.
Our Experience — The hike was easy with little elevation change. We stopped often as the surrounding vistas provided amazing views. The ruins at the end of the trail provided us questions as to “how in the world did someone find this place?” The spring was such a welcomed sight and the plant growth around it was nothing like we had seen in the park up until this point.
We enjoyed this hike immensely. We left early in the morning (around 9 a.m.) as the guidebook recommends (this is a very popular hike in the park) so we did not encounter many park visitors until our way back. It was a very nice getaway with beautiful views.
Gia — Hiking the Mule Ears Spring Trail made for a lovely morning. We had a chance to see the Mule Ear rock formation from multiple vantage points as we hiked. The length of the hike made us feel like we’d been active without wiping us out for the rest of the day. We enjoyed that we had gotten there early enough there were very few other people on the trail. The trail curved around the side of a hill before rising up a gradual incline to the top of a mesa where it meandered along for a bit then gently dipping down again before arriving at the spring. We found the spring an oasis, with cool, clear water trickling over rocks and lush grasses and other greenery making the spot feel set apart from the rest of the world. You could hear the chorus of frogs making their home there in the water. Joey took a moment to filter some water from the spring for us to enjoy a sip. We spent a few more minutes, poking about, kneeling on rocks to trail our fingers through the water, remarking on how different this place looked from the surrounding desert.
Mule Ears being a down-and-back trail, we followed the same path back to the car, but I find I enjoy that kind of hike just as much as a loop because the views always look so different coming from the other direction. (Joey made me wash my hands before he’d let me get in the car because I might have caught a frog at the spring.)
Description — From the Boquillas Overlook you can see the village of Boquillas, Mexico just across the river. This is also a great place to photograph the Sierra del Carmens Mountains and Boquillas Canyon. Along with Mariscal and Santa Elena canyons, these three canyons are one of the major reasons for the creation of Big Bend National Park.
The Boquillas Canyon Trail is a great way to enjoy one of the three major canyons located in Big Bend National Park. A walk along the Rio Grande leads to the entrance of a magnificent limestone gorge that splits the Sierra del Carmen Mountains. Along the way, look for ancient fossils and pre-historic grinding holes that indigenous inhabitants used in food production.
During summer months, it is best to explore the canyon in the mornings, since daytime temperatures often exceed 110 degrees.
Our Experience — This is one of my favorite parts of the park. The drive to get to the Overlook rewards you with twists and turns. Wild horses fed all along the road. When you pull up to the Overlook, you will be amazed at the views of the river and the Mountain Range that surrounds it. Make sure you bring some cash to the Overlook as the locals from Boquillas have all kinds of handmade items laid out for you to purchase. We brought home cozies, trinkets, an apron and other incredible hand made things. The last time I was here, the river was down and the locals could walk back and forth across the river. There were not any there this time as the cowboys rode horses across the river due to the high water. I was bummed we did not get to visit with the people who actually made the items. Last time that was a treat.
Just around the corner from the Overlook is Boquillas Canyon. We took the short hike up and over the mountain ridge and then down along one of the side shoots into the canyon. We plowed our way through the sand all the way to the end. It was a beautiful place, quiet and peaceful. There were not very many people along the way. We stopped to talk with a roadrunner that was just walking along the river’s edge. He did not have much to say, but we talked his ears off (do they have ears? Idk).
We loved this area. On the other side of the river, you could see the animals on the farms and the people working the farms. Here you could see people in kayaks that were trekking down the river and the canyon. The views were simply amazing. The hike was not too bad. You just have to get up and over a little ridge and it is flat along the river after that. There are bathrooms in the parking lot. We took advantage of them. There are not many places to relieve yourself (legally) throughout the park.
Gia — My passport had expired during COVID, and I hadn’t yet renewed it. I wish, wish, wish I had renewed it prior to this trip so I could have made the sojourn across the border into Boquillas. Thankfully, though we couldn’t go to Boquillas, Boquillas came to us. Joey had told me about the handicrafts that people brought across the river to sell, so I made sure to have some cash in my pocket that day. (The official mandate in the National Park pamphlet said that purchasing these goods on US soil was technically illegal. However, everyone was buying and no one was enforcing that mandate.) The crafts were all laid out on blankets at the overlook, and we walked from blanket to blanket, pointing out items of interest, “Look at this apron with the rose! Look at this little embroidered doll! Look at the painting on this pottery!”
There was a metal cylinder with a locked lid on it in the center of all the blankets with a slot on top where you inserted your folded money to pay– none of the crafters were there that day so everything was on the honor system. I bought an apron with a burro embroidered on it for $15 and Joey bought a t-shirt, a felted heart ornament in the colors of the Mexican Flag, and a couple of drink cozies for his FJ kitchen. The prices of goods ran from about $5 to over $50 so there were items for every budget. We stuck with small (because of the limited room in the FJ) and unbreakable. We then hiked the Boqillas canyon– the trailhead was just a short drive from the overlook. Just a few days before, we had also hiked the Santa Elena Canyon. The views on both trails were spectacular, but I preferred the Boquillas because there weren’t as many people there. And, we had a chance to see some people at the ranch across the river, riding horses in the water.
Description — This is the main event. The road is named after Ross Maxwell, the first superintendent of Big Bend National Park. Taking Panther Junction Road, you will drive a few miles before you see the next paved road. Ross Maxwell winds south through insanely scenic views of the Chisos, desert vistas, and a volcanic wonderland with many easy stops along the way. Many of the park’s trailheads start along this road. It is about 31 miles all the way to Sana Elena Canyon, but you can spend days exploring everything that this scenic route has to offer.
Quickly into this route, you will want to stop and take pics of the Chisos in all their glory. From this vantage, you are looking at the other side of “The Window”. Therefore, if you followed this trip to a T, you just looked at the opposite side from The Window View Trail. Along this route you will pass Sam Nail Ranch, Mule Ears Viewpoint and Trail, the Visitors Center, Tuffs Canyon, Santa Elena Canyon Overlook and trailhead and then you can hit up Old Maverick Road on the way out (this sometimes will require a 4wd vehicle).
Our Experience — I love this drive. I really do not know how to say it better than that. The scenery, places to stop along the way, hikes along the route, mountains to drive over, and all the other things makes this one of my top 10 things to do while here. Although this scenic drive is hard to avoid since you have to take it to get to other things, make sure you do not miss this drive while concentrating on the destination. We took tons of photographs and stopped at most of the places along the route. This is a must see for sure while down at this Park.
Gia — I love a good, scenic drive, and this one ticked all my boxes. Scenes out the wazoo, interesting twists and turns, and ample places to stop and admire the scenery from a stationary spot. I loved winding our way through the park on this road and really getting a taste of Big Bend. We did the road traveling both directions, so we saw all the views coming and going. One really neat scenic spot was the Sotol Vista. We stopped there for a potty break and to admire the views. Joey’s rig turned out to be a huge draw for people there as well so he spent a few minutes speaking with men who were interested in the modifications he had made to his rig. We also stopped and hiked many of the trails to former settlements you can find along this road. Many of the past inhabitants of the area before it became a national park left remnants of their homes and ranches, so it was neat to stop and think about what this area looked like then and how hard it would have been to carve out an existence in such a remote, seemingly desolate place.
Description — The sign outside of Terlingua Reads, “With the Mother-Ore Cinnagar strike in 1890, Terlingua became the world’s Quicksilver capital. Yielding 40% of the nations need by 1922. Its name from Terlingua (Three Tongues) by Mexican Herders. Comanche, Shawnees and Apaches lives on its upper reaches. Howard E Perry’s two-story mansion overlooked his Chisos Mining Company and town site here where 2,000 minters once used its jail, church, ice cream parlor and theater. The mine flooded, mineral price feel and Terlingua died after World War 2.”
This is a thriving Ghost town. The Terlingua Trading Company will help get all of your souvenirs for the area and next door, the Starlight Theater is a “must stop” for the area. Just get there early or you will be waiting in line for hours. There are many places to eat around this area and all of the places are known to have amazing food.
Our Experience — There is no Wal-Mart, Starbucks or even Dollar General Stores here. Unlike every other town in Texas, you have no regular comforts of home. You have home town, home grown, interesting one of a kind places to stop, see and eat here. While here, make sure you stop at the Boot Hill Cemetery and pay your respects. You will never forget it. Also, drive slow through the town, there is artwork everywhere that will make you point and chuckle. You can take a self-guided walking tour if you want to and have the time. There are brochures you can pick up around town and walk through the area and see where people just up and left everything they owned to leave the town to the ghosts.
Gia — Terlingua fascinated me because of its history as a mercury mining town, the town peaking and then declining as the need for its mercury stores also peaked and declined. We spent an enjoyable half-hour or so looking at every item in the general store (t-shirts, magnets, and stickers for the win!) and then walked across to the cemetery to view the graves up close. Some resting places were very old, monuments to individuals living in Terlingua in its heyday. However, it’s an active cemetery and individuals from the surrounding areas are still buried there. Many resting places were like works of art, displaying artifacts related to the life of the individual, giving us hints about their hobbies, occupations, and interests. We saw a grave decorated with a multitude of metal roosters and chickens, others with items related to branches of the military the individuals served in, still others with all kinds of unique bits and bobs that gave us clues as to what that individual was like. Walking through the rows of graves in the cemetery felt like visiting an especially sacred museum.
Description — The Hot Springs Historic District has so much history that most people do not know. They just read that there is a hot tub made right into the Rio Grande River and they are all about it. J.O. Langford’s bathhouse is in ruins today, but the spring on the north bank of the Rio Grande will provide you will an experience like nowhere else. From the trailhead, the hot spring is a .5 mile round trip. There is also a one mile loop trail that continues from the hot spring and goes up and over the bluff behind it that returns to the trailhead.
Walking down to the hot spring, you will go by the bathhouse and also the ruins of an Old Post Office where visitors and residents would do everything from pick up their mail to receive medical treatment. Once you get to the Hot Spring, just shed your clothes (make sure and have a bathing suit), and enter the 105 deg F water. This water carries mineral salts reputed to have therapeutic value and according to Langford, cures many diseases.
Our Experience — Make sure and go early in the morning to get a parking spot. Parking is very limited and the Rangers will be out front making you sit in a holding area until someone leaves. The wait for this can be very long as some people love to sit in the water for hours and hours. When you arrive, take your time. Everyone else does. There are bathrooms to change in the main parking area. It is a beautiful walk to the hot spring and there is also a place to stand and watch your loved ones as they bask in the water, if you are not quite as much of a lover of water as they are.
Gia — I’m the swimmer in this relationship, the one that absolutely loves to be in the water if that is an option. When Joey told me that there were hot springs in the park, I said, “Oh, we’re going, and I’m getting in.” I couldn’t believe he’d been before and had contented himself just by seeing the water without stepping foot in it. Boggles my mind. So, the morning we visited the springs, I made sure my bathing suit was on under my clothes and my travel towel was at the ready. It began sprinkling as we made our way down the road to the area of the park where the springs were located. I could only imagine making this trek down the rough, narrow road back in the day when it was actually a resort where people would journey to take the healing waters. The springs are just a short sandy hike from the parking lot. The rain didn’t bother us at all because I was going to be getting wet anyway, and I love swimming in the rain. I shucked down to my suit and left Joey with his phone at the edge of the trail while I joined the small group in the water. The area of the springs is just a small pool at the edge of the Rio Grande. The springs are set apart with some stone walls that are flush with the water level, so you can take advantage of the cooler water of the Rio Grande on one side and move from the warm water into the cold and back again. (The current of the Rio Grande is much stronger than the sedentary pool of the hot springs, so I’d make sure you are a strong swimmer if so inclined to go back and forth between the two temperatures.) I spent a thoroughly-enjoyable half hour in the water soaking in the heavenly warm water, chatting with the few other people there. And yes, I did go back and forth between the springs and the Rio Grande. As a larger crowd approached, I took that as my cue to leave, and Joey and I headed back to our car. What a treat of a morning! Bliss!
Description — The River Road travels along the southern portion of the park, connecting the areas near Rio Grande Village and Castolon. While generally following the course of the Rio Grande, the road is a considerable distance from the river, especially in the middle section around Mariscal Mountain. Even though it is called the “River Road,” you cannot actually see the river along the road unless you take one of the side roads that leads to the riverside campsites.
A variety of Primitive Campsites (permits required) are located along the road, and allow for remote camping and exploration closer to the river (and southern U.S. Border). Highlights along the River Road include the Mariscal Mine, and access to the spectacular Mariscal Rim Trail (6.5 miles round trip hike).
The west side of the River Road is less traveled, and generally in a rougher condition. If you enter from the east and have full confidence in your high-clearance vehicle, consider backtracking from the Mariscal Mine and returning via the Glenn Springs Road. The River Road crosses numerous washes, and regularly becomes impassable after rains. Due to its length and usually rough road conditions, allow a full day to drive from end to end.
Our Experience — I absolutely loved this area. We went to the park over New Year’s, which they say is one of their busiest times of the year, so getting a spot to camp on this road was a chance. You can only get permits to camp on this road at the Panther Junction Visitors Center. You cannot get the permits anywhere else in the park or at any other Visitor Center (there are 4 I think). When you enter the Visitor Center, you can go up to a table they have setup and there will be a person that will take your information down and show you the campsites they have available (this is actually for most of the campsites in the park. The others you have to reserve on www.recreation.gov). The Park Service Employee was nice and patient with us. It really did not matter to me at this time which spot we received. I was just happy they had any at all.
We received our permit and off we went. The sites were really nice. They have bear boxes and a flat spot to park. That is pretty much all there is. Note that if you get a spot close to Boquillas, you will more than likely encounter more night traffic and encounters with Mexican Nationals who have crossed the border for one reason or another. We experienced a car driving back and forth along the road late at night, and then some Vaqueros (Mexican Cowboys) were on horseback in the afternoon chasing cows and horses that had crossed the river. It was exciting but kept me on edge a little. All in all our experience was amazing and very memorable. We will definitely go back, finish out the road and stay in more sites along the River Road.
Gia — Our night on the River Road was the one night we actually slept in the park. It was pretty special to know that we were one of only a few in that area. We passed a Sprinter Van as we found our campground– that same van ended up at the next campsite down across the road, but other than exchanging hellos while he was out walking his dog, we didn’t see the occupants once. We laughed at why someone would camp in a National Park and never leave their van. (I’ve since been in one of those vans and I get it!) Joey and I set up camp, enjoying seeing and hearing the vaqueros as they chased cows back to their side of the Rio Grande. We were surprised by some traffic going up and down the road in the middle of the night, hearing them park the car and get out and start walking on the gravel road close to our campsite and then return to their car, heading back the way they’d come. We looked at each other in the tent, shrugged, and quickly fell back asleep. The next morning we packed up and chatted about what the people in the car might have been doing in the dead of night. That close to the border and Boquillas, who knows? Other than the noise from the car, the night was really pleasant and peaceful. And, we really enjoyed our dinner show from the vaqueros as they herded their cattle back across the river. I want to go back.
Big Bend Ranch State Park El Camino del Rio Scenic Drive
Description — El Camino del Rio, “The River Road”, is one of Texas’s best scenic routes, following the twists and turns of the Rio Grande. The majority of this drive is within the boundaries of Big Bend Ranch State Park traveling between Lajitas and Presidio. As you enter Big Bend Ranch State Park, the Barton Warnock Visitor Center is on your left. Backpacking, Mountain Biking and camping permits are obtained here.
Following Farm Road 170, you arrive in the town of Lajitas, where General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing built the military outpost to protect the settlers from the Mexican renegade, Pancho Villa. Make sure you have a full tank of gas before continuing, there are no service stations in the Park. Plan your rest stop at the Teepee Rio Grande Overlook and take shade under the ornate Teepees within a short walk of the River.
From here, you will pass a number of dramatic canyons. After Medera Canyon, the road climbs a steep 15 percent grade to the top of Santana Mesa, where you are rewarded with a spectacular view at the Santana Mesa Overlook. After crossing Panther Creek, you arrive at Closed Canyon. Several miles after passing Tapado Canyon, you arrive in the farming town of Redford. A few miles later, you exit Big Bend Ranch State Park where you should consider a stop at the Fort Leaton State Historic Site, which was used to protect settlers from Native Americans and Mexican attacks.
The scenic drive comes to an end when you arrive in the former Spanish mission town of Presidio. From here, head north on US-67 towards Marfa, and the Marfa Lights Viewing Station. The lights, best seen at night are a mystery with a variety of explanations from UFO’s, magnetic energy, military experiments or headlights in the distance.
Our Experience — A couple of years ago we were hanging out in line for the Starlight Theatre talking to others standing in line about their vacations around Big Bend and all the things they had seen and done. A couple asked if we had gone down the River Road towards Lajitas. I did not know what they were talking about. My focus, when researching for the trip, was completely centered about the National Park and did not include anything in the surrounding area. They stated it was the most scenic place they had been in the many days they had been there. We totally changed our plans the next day and never regretted it.
This year this was a must stop. Gia had never been here and I knew it would be a treat to head toward Big Bend Ranch State Park and this River Road. We took off early in the morning to not be rushed, as this was our last day before heading back tomorrow. It was December 31st and was most likely the most beautiful weather we had experienced the whole week there. We stopped in at the State Park Visitors Center and picked up a few souvenirs, then continued our journey. Stopping off in Lajitas proved to be one of the highlights of the whole trip for us. We put some quarters in the food bin and fed Clay Henry, the Goat Mayor of the town, and milled around the small general store picking up some celebratory items for our New Year’s Eve Celebration. A U.S. Border Patrol Agent came in and I bought snack for him. He has a very difficult job and I wanted him to know he is appreciated. We packed our snacks in the fridge and headed down the road. The River Road is unmatched when it comes to scenery. The mountains and River offer new sights to behold around every corner. We stopped at the teepees for lunch and walk along the river for a few pictures and selfies. We continued up the highway a little further up over the pass to Santana Mesa Overlook where we stopped for a while to take in the views and get some pictures. The scenery was majestic. We could have stayed all day.
Gia — GIVE ME ALL THE GOATS. This drive was a pleasant meander through stunning views of steep canyons, rock walls, and river riffles made even more special because I got to feed a goat. I’m just a sucker for animals. In the small store next to the pen housing the illustrious hoofed mayor and his lady friend, we once again browsed for souvenirs. I had managed to scratch my sunglasses to bits, so I picked up a pair (at $28, the most expensive sunglasses I’ve ever bought). I also grabbed a couple cans of unique beers because it was New Year’s Eve, and I wanted a little something to commemorate the occasion later back at our campsite. Joey had mentioned a roadside park for us to picnic at, and I loved the spot he took me to. The park had picnic tables covered by teepees just a short walk to the river. We spent a pleasant hour competing to craft the perfect bite with our meat, cheese, spreads, and fruit, coaxing the other to try our culinary creations, chatting about our trip (every moment was just better than the last), and then walking over the river to enjoy the view. We also drove further up the steep road to explore, getting out of the FJ and clambering over rocks to the edge of the overlook to enjoy the unrestricted view of the river flowing through the canyon with the mountains rolling into the distance. It was stunning, and I was very glad Joey was there to help me keep my balance on the rocks. (I’m a wee bit clumsy. I don’t fall down often but I do look like I’m always about to bite the dust. I give him heart attacks anytime our trails take us by sheer drop offs.)
Description — You can hike or paddle this area. The trail leads into the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon. After crossing Terlingua Creek, the trail ascends on paved steps to a vista, and then descends back to the water’s edge, continuing into the canyon until the canyon walls meet the water. A Big Bend classic. Be prepared for mud. Trail is impassable when Terlingua Creek floods.
Put ins and takeout for trips on the Rio Grande in Big Bend National park is easily accessed by car, and this float is often considered the most dramatically beautiful. Santa Elena Canyon, downstream, is most popular for overnight or three day trips, but boomerang trips of during the day of paddling upstream (from the Santa Elena Canyon Trailhead), and then returning back downstream to the river takeout are also popular. Boomerang trips are ideal if you only have one vehicle, or if you do not want to pay for a shuttle back to your starting point. A back country use permit is required for all river trips; there is no fee for day-use trips.
Our Experience — This was the first hike we stopped for in the park. After finishing a nice off-road trip down Old Ore Road, we came out right at the trailhead. Cars were back up all the way down the paved road. You could tell this was one of the hikes where non-hikers became hikers. People with canes, people with tiny humans, people of all shapes and sizes dawned this trail. Even though this is one of the most popular hikes in all of the park, beware as it is not an easy trail. We walked through and across a dry riverbed and then began climbing on the soft rock, dirt up and over the hill and around into the canyon. Once you get into the canyon, it is more organized with steps and concrete paths. There were so many people, though; it made it where it was not very pleasurable for me. Once we finally got back into the canyon, seeing the high walls and water that looked like it was flowing upward…noticing the vast change in temperature and much less people (most decided they could not make it and turned back), we had a great experience and loved this area. This was by far the most populated hike we did all week in the park. Just be prepared.
Gia — We laughed and laughed at the description of this trail as “easy”. I feel that designation had been made to the trail prior to rain or other factors (like the number of people who visit this trail) eroding portions of the trail at the start to a very narrow path across the faces of some steep slopes. The path wasn’t hard, just perilous, with people regularly slipping and falling around us. Thankfully we avoided that dusty, painful fate. People that tried to grab onto vegetation to avoid a fall found themselves with stickers in their hands– the only plants around were prickly ones. Once past that initial precarious part, the path eased and the number of people declined. The hike first went up an incline and then down again as it followed the Rio Grande. The temperature dropped and the vegetation became more green and lush as we headed back into the shadows of the canyon. Because of the orientation of the rock layers, the river looked like it was flowing uphill. It was the neatest natural optical illusion I have ever seen. The walls of the canyon loomed over us, taller than the Empire State Building. We enjoyed the peace at the end of the trail for a few moments, relishing the quiet and cool, before girding our loins to face the crowds and dangerously well-trod path again on our way back to the trail head. This was our first hike in the park and a lovely way to be introduced to the river. The crowds were a bit much, but we did hit this hike at midday so I’m sure it was at a busier time. If hiking this trail again, I’d want to hike first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds.
Description — A 7-mile long paved road climbs into the Chisos Mountains Basin. In the Basin, there is a developed National Park Campground and Park ranger station where information, maps, and back country permits are available. Chisos Mountains Lodge (standard hotel with a few rustic stone cabins) operates the only hotel in the park and a dining room with the most amazing view of any in Texas. The Chisos Mountains support vegetation that includes Douglas fir, Aspen, Arizona cypress, Maple, Ponderosa pine, and Madrone. Daytime highs in the summer rarely exceed 90 in the Basin, and there is plenty of shade. The Basin is hub for an extensive network of hiking trails that range from half-mile strolls, to round trips 5 to 14 miles in length. Day hikers require no permits, but backpackers must obtain a permit and reserve a back country campsite in the Chisos.
Our Experience — I did not travel up to this area the last time I was here. It is a long drive to get up there and it is very crowded as it offers the only lodge in the entire park. This time, Gia wanted to go up and see the area (and she gets what she wants! Haha). I can say that I am very glad that we decided to head up to this area. The drive up was incredible and once we arrived, we noticed that it is unlike any other place in the park. The lush green vegetation and trees growing in this area proved that it was completely different from the red desert of the rest of the park. The temperatures were so much cooler. We stopped by the visitor’s center and the small store there. We looked around at the lodge and the cabins and then went for a short walk to the overlook. One of my regrets is not doing “the Window” hiking trail as it was longer, would have taken more time, but would have rewarded us with views we have not seen all week. I truly enjoyed this area and will definitely make it a stop on our next visit to the park. It was incredibly beautiful in spite of all the crowds, but be prepared to drive around a little while to find a parking space. There are not very many places to park.
Gia — I always like to see the lodges and hotels in National Parks. Some of the architecture is stunning. Plus, I could see that the Chisos Basin was nestled in the midst of mountains in the center of the park, and I wanted to drive up through the mountains. Joey was very amenable to my request to see Chisos Basin– I didn’t have to twist his arm at all! Ha. The day was rainy, and clouds were forming around the mountaintops as the skies scuttled across. Parking was packed, but once again, our perfect timing came through, and a car pulled out to leave just in front of us, affording us a parking space. We made a brief visit to the store to see if there was anything worth having and then a brief visit to the visitors center to look at the small display there. We walked down the paved path to the scenic overlook to admire The Window, both of us wishing there were better conditions for making the hike down to The Window and then back up again. Because of the rain and the strenuous nature of the hike, we thought that might be a hike better left for a dryer day. The paved path loops around, providing some nice overlooks of The Window and surrounding ridges. We told ourselves we would do some hikes in that area of the park the next time we returned, then hopped in the FJ, ready for the next adventure.
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