Getting Started

I read the sign as I walked by…”Moccasin Springs Trailhead” This was our water and charging stop. I was already soaked from the heat early in the day and was glad to sit my pack down on the trail and James and Jon retrieved the water bucket. I had downed two of my water bottles already. Not going to lie, I was ready for a break and we had just started.

The heat was intense. It was the first weekend of November but it was not as cool as what we thought it would be. We had not had a significant rain in Arkansas in weeks or even months in some parts and water was scarce. We had stopped on our way in and had staged a five-gallon bucket of well water from James’ house back in the woods, under some branches like someone’s drug drop. Fortunately, when we arrived it was still there, along with a little charging station that James had left to re-charge phones and devices. I had been carrying around multiple charging devices, so I did not need those, but I definitely welcomed the water.

It was a little while standing around, charging phones, refilling bottles and calling home to let everyone know we were still alive and kicking. We had a good time just telling stories and laughing about past trips, family and general dad jokes. It was fun to just hang out with the guys, standing around, watching the motorcycles go by, and just take a rest during the hottest part of the day. None of us had ever done this part of the trail. We only had about five miles and then we would try to find water down beside a creek and pitch camp, leaving about five miles to the car tomorrow. It was doable, and we had it in us. That was not too much to ask. We were having a good time. The pace was not too bad. They were instilling in me about “hiking your own hike” so that I did not feel rushed and enjoyed myself. I just stood there taking in the moment. I was happy to be here. My feet hurt. My shirt was soaked. I was tired, but I was in my element. Yeah, I had shoveled down several Advil this morning but this was all worth it. No pain; no gain. That was ringing true to me right now at this very moment.

I came to myself as the guys were slinging packs on their backs. I am usually in tune with time and “when it is time” because the last thing I want is to be the one they are waiting on for anything. I hurriedly put my charger up, grabbed a final drink and slung my pack over my shoulder, careful not throw my shoulder out. I am pretty fit and in great shape, but I am also keenly aware of my age and know that it only takes one wrong move and my body gets real upset with me and the enemy of pain moves in and takes forever to find somewhere else to live. Pack felt good. I had my trail body, my trail legs, my trail mentality, my trail…oh who am I kidding? I was tired. I counted every step. My feet hurt badly from constantly landing on the same place each time, especially my left foot. I kept reminding myself this was fun. It was fun. I was having the time of my life. It was a great workout and really helped me to continue this healthy lifestyle in which I have dedicated myself. No pain; no gain. No pain; no gain. I kept repeating it over and over. It was time. We headed down the trail once again to continue the day.

The Trail

The trail continued downhill. It was a nice change after so much up and down from the morning. Now, do not get me wrong, downhill is not easier on me than uphill, but it does use a different set of muscles so it gives the others a break. It is good to spread the love instead of concentrating on one set the whole trip. You could tell the trail had not been traveled much. It was tight in places and you would have to move out of the way to keep the overgrown thistles and thorns from reaching out and grabbing your pants. The rock formations were amazing, but this section of the trail did not have much scenery to look at other than gendering through the woods. Soon we came upon a “Y” in the road that suggested there was another route, but it was not included on the map or on AllTrails. Jon decided to take off down the side trail just to see what might lay at the end of this mystery trail. James followed. Chad and I took this rare opportunity to throw our packs off and take a break from what seemed like carrying a small child on our backs through the woods.

Chad and I were kicked back enjoying this time of rest and relaxation when we heard “ya’ll have to see this!” Not sure if I consider this an invitation or a challenge, but I grunted one time (farted a little) and in a moment or two, I was vertical again. We ventured down this unknown trail to see what lay ahead. We traveled down a little ravine as I thought how this little side trail was as traveled as the main trail where we had just left our packs. Around the corner and through the woods (to Grandmother’s house we go) and we suddenly came upon this hidden water source. We walked with very large rocks on our left, a pool of water on our right, which were also encompassed by the same rock formations. A little further and we came to a little waterfall that was feeding this murky, leaf infested water pool. It was a cool place and I was glad to have laid eyes on it. It is amazing to me the places you would never have seen in your life if you do not take the path that is less traveled. Personally, I never would have ventured down that side path if I were by myself. My hurting feet and 30 lb. pack was enough to make me only take the necessary steps to make it to the end, the destination the goal of the car in the parking lot. I need to rethink my thinking. I need to take those chances and go down those paths that I normally would not set foot on, otherwise I will not see the things and places that 99% of the world never sees. I want to see those.

Making our way back up to our packs, we hit the trail once again. It was really a nice single track wound through the forest past leafless trees and all types of flowers, ferns and vegetation struggling from the past few frosts we had taken on earlier in the month. A small six-point buck trotted off through the woods. That was a nice treat. I then began thinking about back country hunting and what it would take to bring everything I have with me to backpack and hunt all at the same time. How would I hunt, sleep, walk, carry a pack and shoot with my backpack on? It would be cool to be able to bring a muzzle loader out here and get back where most hunters do not normally get. Where would I dress the deer out? Where would I put the meat to pack it out? Would I be able to carry the pack and a long gun as well while walking through the woods on a long hike? All these questions and more ran around in my mind like a hoard of rats on a small piece of cheese. It was all invigorating to behold. The creation of such a diverse area. It made the world seem so big where in normal life we tell each other what a small world it is in which we live.

It was not long until we made it to a small stream. Just a few yards north of the trail was a pool that seemed as if it were around five foot deep. If the water was not so cold, and it were a little warmer outside, we definitely would have all gotten in. We were starting to smell like a large container of McDonald’s French Fries that had been left under the car seat for a few years. On a side note, I found it odd that I was the only one of the group that actually brought extra clothes. We will talk about that later. We decided that we were not in any hurry, that we could just sit down and enjoy this beautiful area. I let my backpack down off my back and got out my chair. This was a time when the Helinox Chair Zero was my most prized possession. I could really stretch my feet out and rest my legs. They were tired and worn out. This was the most grueling test they had been through since the 5k race I was forced to run in the police academy 12 years ago. Yes, I had walked on the treadmill almost every day before taking this trip, and most days with a weighted vest of around 30 lbs., yet nothing come mimic this beat down my legs and feet were taking at this point. I think about the 70-year-olds who have finished the 2100-mile Appalachian trail and I am humbled by their feat. I think about the female who finished the Appalachian Trail in just over 52 days, hiking and running 50 plus miles a day and I am in awe at what a beating a body can take and still keep going. Yet, here I am, complaining about 7–8 miles a day. I guess it is what you are used to. I guess it is what you are trained up for. Yet again, so many have written books about that 2100-mile trail being their first backpacking trip after a few day trips. What in the world? I am a wuss. Admittedly, I need to toughen up a bit. Talk amongst yourselves. I am going to pull myself together now.

The water was running by just below my feet. The steady stream was about 2 feet wide strewn with larger rocks in order to hop across on the trail. The moss glistened in the mid-day sunlight. I sat with my legs stretched out, cramming trail mix in my mouth like someone is behind me trying to take it from me. After finishing that little pack, I pulled out some energy gummies and my water bottle. My LifeStraw water filter was about to get its next use. I was definitely filling up everything right here. I am sure this water will taste crisper and cleaner than any I have had in a long time. The rest was so rewarding and welcomed. I could have sat here all day. It is one of those places you just don’t want to leave, yet here we go.

The trail took off climbing the next peak. My pack was getting lighter. I was getting my trail legs for the day. I felt great. My feet were getting better, as the Advil began to work. I pressed my trekking poles hard in the ground with each inclining step. My arms were getting as much of a workout as my legs at this point. It was a full body workout and I was really enjoying it. Even though I have Vertigo really bad and have a hard time keeping my balance on the trail when I try to look around at the scenery, I was “hiking my own hike” and taking in all that I could while trying to keep up pace with the others. I was a short ways behind Jon, who moved at his normal “Gonzales” pace. James and Chad were a short ways behind me. I could not see them, but I could hear them talking with an occasional laugh.

Making our way through the Ozark National Forest, the trail suddenly went from single track to what looked like an old logging road. It was wide. We all clumped up together. This started a time when the four of us were able to visit, telling stories again as if we were still eating breakfast this morning. We continued through open fields planted for deer by the Arkansas Game and Fish. Again, the trail became an actual trail; once again, the trail became a road. We traveled up and down the hills, through the woods, and down in the valleys. We saw everything from animals, to rock, sunshine, clouds, leaves fallen off trees, bugs and spiders to dirt and mud. Yet there was one thing vital to us that we had been missing for some time now. Miles into our journey, since we had left the small creek, we traveled without seeing one glimpse of water. We seemed to have left all of the water back behind us and no matter how far we walked, and how much we looked; we just could not find any form of water.

We entered the valley where we had planned to set up camp for the night. According to the map, it would be just off the trail, next to a creek. Soon we came to a nice flat spot and decided this would be the spot. This would leave us around five to six miles tomorrow to the vehicle and our exit point of the trail and our time together. As we got closer to the spot, we noticed that it was not a creek, but a dry creek bed. Yes, it usually has water, you could tell. Now it was dry as every other place we had seen in the last several miles. We all were getting close to being out of water, so James went on a hike down the creek bed to see if he could locate some pools we might could draw from. We all found our own little level spots to set up our homes for the evening and James took off down the creek bed. We had just finished setting up our tents when he returned and stated that he did not find anything. I felt this eerie feeling in my stomach. Yes, I had enough for my dehydrated dinner this evening, but what about having enough water for the hike out tomorrow morning? It would be slim pickins for sure.

We fiddled around camp for a few more minutes, and then Jon said he would venture down the creek bed to find some water. I stated I would go with him. We walked down the trail and entered closely to where we thought James stated he had reached. We entered the creek bed and began to traverse all rocks, large and small, for almost a mile before we found a little puddle of standing water, filled with leaves, about 15 feet in diameter. Jon stated that this looked like it was decent. He got out his filter and filled up a small part of his Nalgene. We took a swig and he stated that it was not bad. I stated it kinda tasted like tea. We succumbed to the theory that the leaves were Sweet Gum from the overhanging trees that could have sweetened the water. It was a little brown even after filtering and tasted like tea, so there it has to be tea, right? We filtered all of the bottles we had with us and headed back to camp.

That evening around the fire, I felt better. I had stayed the night before in my tent so it went up quickly. I was organized and everything was put away in its own little place. I felt better that I had water for dinner, breakfast, and then two bottles for the trip out tomorrow morning. That should be plenty. We would have more at the car.

I retired early. I was beat. After shooing away one of the largest spiders I had ever seen off my pack INSIDE my tent, I popped a couple more Advil, laid down, plugged in my phone, and … I am not really sure after that. I just passed out.