…a HIS and HER Perspective…

HIS

Recently, we decided to take a trip to the Santa Fe, NM area. I had traveled through this area back in 2020 while we were on the Enchanted Rockies trail from Carlsbad, NM to Angel Fire, NM. The trail is both off-road and on pavement where it takes you through scenic areas of wilderness and through historic and beautiful areas of countryside, towns and cities. The Enchanted Rockies Trail, made popular by the YouTube Family Sensation, Lifestyle Overland, goes right through the middle of Old Town Square in Santa Fe, and then up the Taos Scenic Highway until you turn off the pavement on a Forest Road ending up in Angel Fire.

It was during this trip that my mind was spurred, wanting to stop and explore this area a little more. I was already in love with the food of New Mexico, as I believe the delicacies they have here are some I have never encountered anywhere else in the world. In addition, the culture is fascinating to me, and the scenery with mountain backdrops are highly underrated when compared to its neighbors to the west.

We took off and headed west on the first morning of the week of Thanksgiving in 2022. Working at schools, we had this week off and so we planned to visit this area up until the day before the holiday, and then head home. We made our way west of Arkansas and arrived late at night, staying our first night in a quaint little hotel in Amarillo. The next morning, after catching a quick hotel breakfast, we headed straight into the 40 mph headwind and stopped for just a minute at Cadillac Ranch for photos. We fueled up and then rolled into Santa Fe right after noon. It was a beautiful and windy drive and we were excited to be exploring a place where neither one of us had ever traveled to before.

I would like us to share our Top 10 places to visit in the area. The perspectives will come from each of us independently. I will share my favorite places we encountered coming from a man’s perspective and Gia (my girlfriend) will share her favorite places (in order) from her female perspective. This way, when you are planning your trip to the area, you will have both opinions to go by when making your “to do” list. Always plan, prepare and research to the ultimate degree BEFORE you head out. This way, you will make sure you make the most of your time and be able to do all you want before your runs back and you are forced to head home.

HERS

“Good job packing” Joey said as he transferred my belongings into his FJ. “Well, thank you,” I responded, “I have mad packing skills.” Joey and I had only been dating for a few months, and Santa Fe was our first big trip together. I was completely smitten with this man, and though we disagreed on who invited who and how exactly I wound up on this pre-Thanksgiving adventure to the southwest, I was there for it. Since we live in different parts of Arkansas, we met at a casino outside Fort Smith, and I hopped in his FJ, Little Girl, with all my stuff. I think he was being kind about my packing, and I lied about the mad packing skills. Joey had been to Santa Fe before and had also researched some ideas of things he wanted to do. I had done some online perusing of touristy things as well, so each of us had a few ideas of things we’d like to hit up and places we’d like to explore. I did overpack (of course), but regardless of my “mad” packing skills, Santa Fe turned out to be one of the best trips I’ve ever taken in my life. Here are my top ten Santa Fe moments and recommendations.

Top 10

HIS

10. Pecos National Historical Park

If you travel around 20 miles east of Santa Fe, you will come to Pecos, NM. Personally, I am an avid lover of the National Parks and have a goal of collecting stamps from every single National Park in my Passport Book, so this is one of the first things I researched before we headed out that way. I had never been to Pecos and had no idea what we were getting into, but I did know I could get a stamp there, it had some neat history and that there were several hiking trails where we could get some miles in.

If you look at the National Park website, you will read the following about the park…”Pecos is a cultural crossroads through which hunters and gatherers, traders, conquerors and explorers, immigrants, soldiers, ranchers and tourists passed. Walk the trails and imagine Pecos through the centuries. Explore sites where cultural demonstrations and traditional practices continue today — a living legacy of the people who passed this way.”

We really enjoyed walking around the trail behind the visitor center, taking in the views of the area. The walk was very nice and included reconstructed worship areas and also the ruins of the church built by the Conquistadors who were there trying to convert the local natives. Signs were every so often telling exactly what you were looking at and what happened back during this time there.

We also traveled down the road to another side of the park and hiked a few miles to see an area where the locals fought off the army from Texas that was trying to take over the world. It was very interesting to see the old tavern, the road that went through the area, and all of the places where the armies fought each other during this horrible time in history.

The weather is always beautiful here so it was amazing to hike here, even with a little snow on the ground.

HERS

10. Local Groceries: “Here. Look at this. Figure out which one is closest.” Joey said, handing me some papers. “What is this?” “A list of grocery stores. Let’s go find some Chicharrones.” The grocery store experience was a huge part of what made exploring Santa Fe and the surrounding areas so much fun. I had no idea the absolute joy that New Mexican Chicarrones would bring to my life unless Joey hadn’t introduced me to those delicious salty, crisp bits of fried fatty goodness at a local grocery store. He had printed lists of stores before we got to Santa Fe and we drove around, finding them all. It was like a yummy scavenger hunt. One particular grocery we went back to three times, and I even bought a majority of souvenirs from my family from that store (New Mexican Chili for the win!). The first time to that grocery, we walked in, responded with head nods and smiles to their “hola”s and meandered through the aisles. When we wound up at the deli section, he muttered “oh yeah” and bought about half a pound of Chicharrones. We took them out to the FJ and tore into them, each bite better than the last, the fat perfectly rendered. He kept telling me not to spoil my supper, but I was unable to stop shoving them in my mouth. I was in HEAVEN.

My recommendation: Date someone who LOVES grocery stores. Then, find yourself a LOCALLY-owned grocery — Asian or Latin markets are usually gold. Peruse the aisles. Get a feel for the local culture through their food stores, not just their restaurants. Restaurants only tell part of the story of an area and may leave out many of the people that live there. If you can’t find a local ethnic market, geek out at Trader Joe’s or Aldis. Buy ya some good picnic food. Try local snacks and other delicacies. Buy stuff to take home and share with your friends and family. Expand your palate and honor a different culture (and you’ll save some bucks at the same time by not eating out at restaurants for every meal).

HIS

9. Loretto Chapel

Location — 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM

We are suckers for old chapels and churches as you might notice in this list (more to follow), so this one will be included. It is not my favorite as it was very small, and it cost to get in, but the experience still was very nice and memorable.

The chapel was commissioned by the Sisters of Loretto for their girls’ school, Loretto Academy, in 1873. Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy had brought in two French architects to work on the St. Francis Cathedral project, and suggested that the Sisters could make use of their services (on the side) to build a chapel for the academy. The chapel took five years to complete, being officially consecrated in 1878. The students and nuns used Loretto Chapel on a daily basis until the school closed in 1968. Afterwards, it became a privately owned museum and wedding venue, while the rest of the Academy campus was demolished.

Loretto Chapel is best known for its “miraculous” spiral staircase, which rises 20 feet to the choir loft while making two full turns, all without the support of a central pole. Apart from any claims of its miraculous nature, the staircase has been described as a remarkable feat of woodworking. It truly is something to see (but you cannot touch).

HERS

9. Picnics Galore: “You hungry?” Joey inquired after we returned to the car from the Frey Trail at Bandalier. “Starving”. “Let’s change shoes and I’ll pull over to that other parking lot that’s not as crowded. We’ll have a picnic.” What did we do with that food we bought at grocery stores? We picnicked. We ate our way through our days. Not overeating but using food to sustain us and add to the joy of the day. One memorable moment: We had just finished a hike at Pecos National Park and when we arrived at the FJ, Joey opened the back and got into the fridge and pantry, pulling out olives, grapes, cheese, crackers, and salami.

We competed with one another as to who could build the *VERY BEST BITE* and conducted blind taste tests to see if we could tell what color grape it was with our eyes closed. (Spoiler alert: I suck at that.) I’ll also never forget one evening sitting together on the bed in the cabin, cozy together, eating chicken salad we’d bought at Trader Joes and enjoying some soup cooked on the Jet Boil.

We reminisced about the day (“how deep do you think that snow was? How high in altitude did we get? How many miles did we go?”) as we passed each container back and forth and laughed our way through supper. Color me contented — I love eating with Joey and sharing food. Joey has this way of saying “Oh my gosh” when he puts something delicious in his mouth that makes me laugh and want to immediately try what he’s tasting. Know this for sure: The way to the heart through the stomach isn’t just limited to men.

My recommendation: Picnic. Picnic in the car while driving from one hike to another. Picnic out the trunk of your vehicle after your hike. Picnic at the side of the road, enjoying the fresh air and scenery. Picnic in your room or campsite or wherever your spot for the night happens to be. Munch on some yummies before you hike. Munch while oohing and awing out the window as you overland. Take advantage of Overlanding with a fridge and pack that sucker full of tidbits that make your tummy happy. Take care of each other and try building each other that perfect bite.

HIS

8. Carson National Forest

One afternoon after visiting Chimayo, we drove on up the Taos Scenic Byway towards Angel Fire and hopped off-road at the Carson National Forest. Now remember, this was in November so there was a little snow on the ground all the way up to where the sign read “entering 4wd area only.” When we arrived at the sign, it looked like the sky had dumped tons of snow on the ground starting right there. We locked the 4wd in, and entered on the Forest Road (FR 714) treading through about 14 inches of snow for about 30 miles.

This area was so beautiful with overlooks of the surrounding areas and mountains. Most of the time the roads were just wide enough for one vehicle with an occasional place to pass. It was not crowded allowing us to have a day without people. This was a nice treat.

HERS

8. Santa Fe Plaza and Stores: We arrived at our KOA the first day over-tired and travel giddy. We’d driven through most of the night (well, he drove and I asked a million questions “What’s your most embarrassing moment? What’s your favorite job you’ve ever had?”), stopping in Amarillo to sleep in the wee hours of the morning and then waking early-ish to finish the rest of the trip. We got to the KOA in the late afternoon and the staff was kind enough to point us in the direction of the downtown. Daylight was burning and we needed to explore. (Plus, if we’d stopped going we would have collapsed.) I proved my chops (kinda) navigating us to a parking garage, whereupon I learned that Little Girl does not go into parking garages because of her height due to her lovely accessories. Luckily, there was an uncovered parking lot just across the street. We parked, hopped out, and explored. We saw the round capitol building, put money in a box in front of a man demonstrating dances in Native American dress in the center of the Plaza, bought the most expensive honey in the world (well, that one was all Joey), and just enjoyed walking up and down streets lined with stores containing clothes and knick knacks neither of us was interested in buying, holding hands. I fell in love more and more with him and the area with every step. The streets were a maze that I was glad to lose myself in with him.

My recommendation: Make time to see the town. You may be there for the outdoorsy stuff — the Overlanding and hiking — but take some time to enjoy the town, its culture and history, and see each other in a new location. Remind yourselves you are at least halfway-civilized creatures. Laugh at how expensive everything is and dream about what you’d really do with the money if you had enough to buy everything you saw. (“Forget that jacket. . . Let’s get a van!”)

HIS

7. Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

Built in 1869, the church was built and named after the Patron Saint of Santa Fe, St. Francis of Assisi. It was deemed a Basilica in 2005 by Pope Benedict XVI which means it was of significantly important in the spread of Catholicism throughout the world. It is beautiful with amazing art and is still used today for worship.

When we visited there were choir members singing and it was very somber. You could tell that everyone there treated this as a Holy Place. It was incredibly beautiful.

HERS

7. Pecos National Park: “Wanna go south? There’s another park that I can get the stamp for.” I’m pretty much always on board for anything, so we headed south to Pecos. The mountains became more softly rolling as we journeyed. The parking lot for the visitor’s center was almost deserted as we made our way in. He grabbed his stamp; I looked at the magnets. We watched the film describing the history of the area (a story filled with Native Americans and Conquistadors, Spanish Monks, and, eventually, the Civil War).

We circled the grounds close to the visitor’s center on a short hike, climbed down into Cavates (ancient ceremonial underground spaces you could descend into via ladder) , and stood amazed at the remnants of the church against the backdrop of the mesas. I saw some animal scat, asked Joey if it was raccoon, and was told “It’s deer. It that was raccoon, that raccoon had the poop of his life, pooping his body weight” I could barely walk I was laughing so hard at my clueless question and his dry response. After that walk, we got the combination to a lock on the gate at a trailhead for another trail a few miles from the visitor’s center you had to drive through private land to get it. We met a couple on the trail who asked if that was Joey’s FJ in the parking lot and chatted a few seconds. It was such a lovely morning and afternoon, rounded out with a picnic at the FJ where we enjoyed some of our spoils from Trader Joe’s.

My recommendation: Go to the national parks, even the ones that aren’t as frequented and aren’t as popular. There’s something special about being one of the few on a trail. Seek the peace of those out-of-the-way, less frequented places (that may even need a code to get into) and let them soothe your soul. And then have a picnic. Ha.

HIS

6. Tune Up Café

This was the first place we went to once we entered the city of Santa Fe. I had taken the time before we left to research places to eat using the website www.dinersdriveinsdiveslocations.com This is a website where you can enter where you are traveling to and it will give you dining locations in that area that is recommended by Guy Fieri and his crew from Diners Drive-in’s and Dives. We had several on the list and Gia picked this one according to what she read in the description. They had authentic New Mexican food along with other food from Mexico and even El Salvidorian Papoosa’s that were to die for. It was so good that we went BACK to it a second time on another afternoon there.

HERS

6. Road to Taos: I remember wondering when I was a kid wondering if I would EVER enjoy the Sunday drives my parents would drag my sisters and me on after church. I LOVE THOSE DRIVES NOW. I think I started falling in love in college, taking off to drive too fast on back roads when I needed some space from campus. Then, I worked in a remote area in Pennsylvania during summers in college and the year after college where getting anywhere was a long ride.

Now, I love time in the car, especially when traveling with loved ones. There’s nothing like a road trip for bonding. Throw in some scenery, and I’m hooked. Every curve of the scenic road to Taos has a sight to delight the eyes. We slowed down along the road multiple times so I could soak in the high desert and pine forests and take multiple pictures of mountains rolling into the distance.

My recommendation: Realize there’s joy in the destination, yes, but there’s also joy in the journey. Enjoy it. Enjoy that time of in-between-ness as you navigate through the curves and straightaways. And realize the joy the right travel companion can bring, where every road trip becomes an adventure.

HIS

5. Bandelier National Monument

“Bandelier National Monument protects over 33,000 acres of rugged but beautiful canyon and mesa country as well as evidence of a human presence here going back over 11,000 years. Petroglyphs, dwellings carved into the soft rock cliffs, and standing masonry walls pay tribute to the early days of a culture that still survives in the surrounding communities.” (https://www.nps.gov/band/index.htm).

This National Park was not only another place where I could get a stamp in my Passport book; it was an amazing place with some interesting history. Walking behind the visitor center, you see the ruins of buildings and cliff dwellings that leave you in amazement about how people could actually live as they did hundreds and even thousands of years ago. Take a walk up the Frey Trail to see a better view from above and get some exercise in. On your way out, stop by and walk the short Tyuonyi Overlook Trail for overlooks of the canyon you will not get anywhere else in the park.

HERS

5. Santa Fe Cathedral: “Did you know that the oldest cathedral in the US is in Santa Fe”, Joey asked in one of our phone conversations prior to the trip. “Nope,” I responded, “No clue.” We made sure to meander through this place on our first visit downtown, and I asked to return the last day of our trip. I wanted to see the stained glass windows again as the light came through them and projected rainbows upon the opposite white walls. I wanted to sit in a pew and breathe deep with my eyes closed. I love the peace in places of worship. I wanted to soak it in again.

My recommendation: Churches can be lovely spots to explore. If exploring a building that houses an active congregation, there are usually parishioners available to take you on tours and answer questions. They love their holy places. So, enjoy their passion and partake in the peace they are eager to share with you.

HIS

4. Santa Fe Historic District

From the Santa Fe City website, it states the following about the downtown historic district…”Radiating from the four-centuries-old Palace of the Governors, the most historic area of the city is completely walkable, with quaint winding streets featuring charming boutiques, restaurants, bookstores and art galleries tucked into every block. Aspects of the past remain in the look and feel of the traditional Spanish Plaza, including a certain flavor of the Old West and the time-honored tradition whereby local Native artisans sell their amazing creations beneath the portal of the Palace of the Governors. Downtown hotels are convenient to everything including fabulous restaurants, world-class museums and shopping.” (https://www.santafe.org/visiting-santa-fe/neighborhoods/plaza-and-downtown/)

It was a neat experience to walk around and see all the shops, but the cool thing to me was the street vendors who bring out their local art and trinkets to sell on blankets underneath one of the overhangs. We were able to see a native Indian dance in his tribal attire and tell us about his heritage. The music playing everywhere, the décor for whatever time of year it is … it created an atmosphere where you just enjoyed being there. The Basilica is there. There are bars for drinks, shops to buy souvenirs and all kinds of stuff, coffee, food, and my favorite…Green Chile.

I just enjoyed walking around and taking all that in. It was different and an unexpected delight.

HERS

4. Restaurants: At the same time Joey pulled out the list of grocery stores, Joey pulled out a list of restaurants in the Santa Fe area that had been featured on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives and told me to pick one. Whew. Now this was a test– picking a restaurant for a man who loves to eat his way through other places as much as I do. I didn’t want to drop the ball and I wanted to impress him with my choice. I don’t want to eat out every meal, but I definitely want to eat out. And when we eat out, I want to taste all the things. I want to order one of everything and share food. I want to dine. I want to savor. I want to enjoy the experience and not just rush through. I did a little online sluething and said, “Let’s hit the Tune Up Cafe”.

He entered it into Maps, and away we went. As soon as we walked in, I knew it was our kind of place. It was crowded and noisy and the menu was on a chalkboard and it smelled AMAZING. I ordered a Chile Relleno omelet, he the tacos, and we ate ourselves silly, exclaiming that each bite was better than the last. We went back another time for supper another evening because I needed to try their Papusas and their German Chocolate cake.

Oh my word. That cake. I’d go back in a second to Santa Fe for another slice. It was SO GOOD my mouth waters even just typing about it. We also hit up another restaurant in Santa Fe one evening, Tomasitas, recommended to us by the owner of the Chili store on the Plaza. Once again, so good. Authentic New Mexican food and an absolute delight. And yes, I made Joey share his food.

My Recommendation: Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives scouts out some neat places. Try them! Ask interesting locals you’ve connected with in conversation their recommendations as well– they’ll usually shoot ya straight. And then savor and dine and order everything you want to but share with everyone you are with. Give them bites off your plate and steal bites off of theirs. Ha.

HIS

3. Rancho de Chimayo

From the website…”Florence and Arturo Jaramillo cultivated the menu for Rancho de Chimayó based on personal, local and ancestral family influences. Over the past 50 years, the restaurante became famous for it’s signature dishes of spicy guacamole, hand rolled tamales, blue corn enchiladas, carne adovada and chile rellenos. A refreshing prickly pear margarita made with our signature tequila or glass of fine wine from our full bar will compliment your meal but please leave room for a fluffy sopapilla dipped in fresh local honey or one of our seasonal desserts as a finale to your visit.” (http://www.ranchodechimayo.com/)

This was definitely a highlight for me, someone who highly appreciates fine food. This was included in the email from my friend who stated, “You have to eat here. Don’t miss this.” Right around the corner from the Santaurio de Chimayo (you will see this later), is this restaurant. It has been here since 1965 and resides in what was once a family home. The food was to die for.

I ordered the Chile Rellenos and I believe Gia got the enchiladas. I also ordered some of the Green Chile soup and I could have eaten a gallon of it. The atmosphere was amazing, but get there early. In the back is the bar where you can sit by the fire and have drinks while waiting for your number to be called.

HERS

3. Overlanding Carson National Forest: “Yep, this is the road we want,” Joey told me. We crept up the mountain, gaining elevation, watching the snow get deeper and deeper. The pines were heavy with the snow, making the forest seem absolutely magical. There were wide open spots where we could see mountains for miles and other spots where the pines were so close and looming they made the most cozy tunnel where we felt like we were the only ones in the woods.

We drove for miles and hours, stopping multiple times to take pictures, only seeing another vehicle once. Enjoying the conversation, marveling at the scenery, watching how skillfully he maneuvered over the road all contributed to such a fun afternoon exploring the national forest together.

My Recommendation: Explore the forest roads. Spend some time in national forests, not just national parks. See what your tax payer money supports and get outdoors. Just make sure you have a vehicle with good tires, good clearance, and 4WD.

HIS

2. Tsankawi

“The Tsankawi section of Bandelier National Monument is located on State Highway 4 twelve miles from the main section of the park. At Tsankawi you take a 1.5 mile walk along a mesa, viewing cavates, petroglyphs and the Ancestral Pueblo village of Tsankawi. Ladders are a required part of this trail.” (https://www.nps.gov/band/planyourvisit/tsankawi.htm)

Right after stating that on the website, it states, “Unfortunately, Tsankawi is not the easiest place to find.” They are correct. In fact, we drove right past it going to Bandelier and new knew it was there. We would have never known it was there if the Park Ranger had not told us about it. We were coming down from the Frey Trail at Bandelier and stopped and talked to a native Indian who was a Park Ranger. He stated that he would only be at the main part of Bandelier for a few hours and then he was heading to Tsankawi. We inquired and it sounded interesting so, after a picnic and a short hike we headed that way. Even after him telling us exactly how to get there, we had a hard time finding it and I drove right past it, having to turn around in the highway.

THIS was incredible. The hike was pretty easy. I would rate it around a 5 or 6 out of 10. There are ladders and it does require climbing. Also, the trail that was formed in or out of rock gets very narrow in places. However, the reward is worth it all. The cliff dwellings were unreal. The views were incredible. The petroglyphs were some like we had never seen, and the best thing about it…it was not crowded. When we were at Bandelier we had to wait on so many people that were trying to get up and around the trail to see the Cliff dwellings. It was not this way at all here and it was so much better! It was such a great experience and ended up being one of the best things we did all week.

HERS

2. Bandelier and Tsankawi National Parks: “Joey, I really want to see the cliff dwellers. It’s on my bucket list,” I said one evening while we were planning the trip. “Oh yeah,” he responded, “That’s a for sure.” I’d always wanted to see the caves dug into the side of the mountains that ancient peoples had lived in thousands of years ago.

I remember reading an article about those homes and people in Highlights Magazine when I was little, and I was transfixed by the pictures. We headed to check off that bucket list item our second full day in Santa Fe. As we pulled into Bandelier National Park, we stopped at a scenic spot on top of the canyon before winding our way down to the Visitor’s Center. He got his stamp and a t-shirt, I got my magnet, then we returned to the car, changed our shoes, and headed out on the popular hike to see the dwellings. The hike was neat with lots of stairs and some ladders to climb into the dwellings (which were amazing) but so crowded with people. It was a lot of stop and start, waiting for the groups in front of us to finish taking pictures before we could progress along the path. We saw a sign for the Frey Trail, a dirt trail that broke off the main paved trail and switchbacked up the canyon walls. No one was on it. We took it and had the best time, climbing up and then along the top of the canyon for miles, no longer surrounded by people, feeling like we were able to make the park our own.

Returning back to the bottom of the canyon, we were met with a park ranger who told us “If you like this, you need to go to Tsankawi. It’s not as crowded. I’ll be there later today.” “Okay! Thanks for the advice.” The ranger gave us some brief directions. Joey and I headed back to the FJ where we changed shoes and had a picnic. We started to head out of the park, but we stopped to look at some campsites and then realized we were close to another trail that had some amazing overlooks so we got a few more miles surrounded by views that made us catch our breath (flatter miles this time and thankfully people free. Ha.). From there, we drove to Tsankawi. Pulling into the small parking lot right off the highway, I commented, “Wouldn’t this be funny if this is the most amazing thing we do all day?” The day had already been so full of memorable moments, I thought there was no way we could top everything we’d already seen and done. I was wrong. We followed the trail to a ladder that led up the mesa. Climbing the ladder, we were met with the ranger we’d seen at Bandelier who told us to take the left fork up to the top of the mesa.

The trail followed the top of the mesa (the views went forever) to the far side where you climbed ladders back down the side of the mesa. We then were able to clamber on and over narrow trails that went over the rocks and up the mesa walls to see multiple dwellings. It was like a scramble– I felt like a kid on a jungle gym. There were also so many ancient paintings of men and suns and birds that you could spot on the mesa walls. It was amazing. Definitely one of the best hikes I have ever been on in my life. I couldn’t believe how much joy that day contained– checking off bucket list items with a person that made every experience even more special.

My Recommendation: GO TO TSANKAWI. THE END. (I almost hesitate to recommend it because part of what made the experience so special was how few people were there and how much it felt like we had the place to ourselves.) Because of the sometimes perilous nature of the hiking trail, I wouldn’t recommend this experience for young children.

HIS

1. Santaurio de Chimayo

“El Santuario de Chimayo, a small shrine located in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of Chimayo, New Mexico, has been a place of worship since before its construction in 1813. For generations, American Indians, Hispanics, and other people of faith have traveled to the site of El Santuario to ask for healing for themselves and others, and to offer prayers of petition and of thanksgiving for favors received. Following a long tradition of miraculous shrines, El Santuario is now one of the most important Catholic pilgrimage centers in the United States and one of the most beautiful examples of Spanish Colonial architecture in New Mexico. Today El Santuario de Chimayo, also known as Lourdes of America, attracts over 300,000 pilgrims from all over the Southwest and elsewhere each year. Thousands of pilgrims walk to El Santuario from Santa Fe and other starting points during Holy Week.”

(https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/american_latino_heritage/el_santuario_de_chimayo.html)

I had received an email from a friend who knew we were going on this trip a few weeks prior to our departure. He wrote, “You will definitely want to go to Chimayo.” I had only heard of this place due to it having the reputation of having the “best red chili powder in the world.” We looked into it and decided we would check it out on the way to the Carson National Forest. I am sure glad we did, as this was most likely our favorite place during the whole trip. Next to the shrine (actually attached to it) is the El Posito, a holy chapel filled with healing earth. It was very interesting.

This place is not just about the shrine, but it is a little community (El Potrero) with a Children’s Chapel (Santo Nino Chapel) and some little shops where you can purchase local art and the world renowned Chimayo Red Chile Powder which was so fresh. You could definitely tell it was different than the rest. The little man at the shop that sold art was one of the most interesting people we met on the whole trip.

He fixed me coffee that had Chimayo Chili Powder in it. It was so good!

HERS

1. Chimayo: Joey had publicized that he was planning a trip for Santa Fe and his loyal listeners heeded the call, responding with recommendations. One individual sent an email with the sentence “You need to go to Chimayo.” He elaborated a bit about the town and finished with, “It’s a special place.”

Joey and I headed that direction our first full day. We took the scenic road to Taos to get to Chimayo, the small town that’s one of the most frequented pilgrimage sites in the United States. Our perfect timing didn’t let us down and we pulled into the dirt parking lot just after the Santaurio had opened and began to meander the grounds. I really had no idea what I was stepping into. I hadn’t looked at any pictures or done any reading on the location, and I think it was that feeling of the unknown that made discovering Chimayo so enchanting. It was walking around a corner and being surprised by the chapel. . .sitting together with Joey in the old sanctuary that is still a vibrant congregation, watching some parishioners get ready for the upcoming service. . . finding the church grounds indistinguishable from the grounds of the town so we couldn’t tell where one ended and one began. . . meeting the man who lived across the street from the church and operated his own little store and art studio, inviting us to buy his fresh baked cookies and fresh-pressed coffee while he showed us all his creations (some he confessed created while he was drunk). . . making our way to the children’s chapel and being delighted by the vibrant colors and eclectic decorations. . . finding the “holy dirt” and filling a small bag while the priest held mass just in the next room. It was such a peaceful morning. From the church, we headed to the Rancho de Chimayo where we were delighted by the truly authentic New Mexican food (they wrote the cook book) and by each other’s company. Joey kept me in stitches with his old man impersonation. Chimayo. . . I LOVE YOU.

My Recommendation: Go to Chimayo. Take the scenic route. Slow down. Get some dirt. Sit in a pew. Say hello to everyone. Then, eat good food.

Honorable Mentions

1. Trader Joe’s

Location — 530 W Cordova Rd, Santa Fe, NM 87505

Yes, I will include some shopping in this list. It will be limited to a few spots I believe are worth mentioning, so do not worry I won’t have you treading off to Wally World to find that perfect woven shawl, but I will tell about some places that we traveled to and loved.

If you have ever been to Trader Joe’s, you know that it is something to behold. They are not everywhere, so when you head to a place where there is one, you definitely want to go as they have things you do not see at any other grocery stores. Their website states, “At Trader Joe’s, you won’t find a lot of branded items. Instead, you’ll discover a store full of unique and interesting products, along with everyday basics, in the Trader Joe’s label.

Our buyers travel the world searching for products we think are exceptional and will find a following among our customers. To earn a spot on our shelves, each product is submitted to a rigorous tasting panel process, in which every aspect of quality is investigated in context of the price we can offer. If a product is assessed as an outstanding value, it becomes an essential part of the Trader Joe’s shopping adventure.”

We bought quite a few things here that we ate while on this trip including but not limited to Crackers, Chicken Salad, some of the biggest grapes I have ever seen, dried salami and dehydrated Okra. This made for some great picnics so we did not have to eat out every single meal. I loved going in here and we actually went back a second time for more of things we enjoyed the first time.

2. El Paisano Supermarkets

Throughout the city of Santa Fe, there are several hole in the wall New Mexican Grocery stores. The one we visited almost daily was the El Paisano Grocery Stores, two of which were much larger than the others. I was originally on the hunt for fresh roasted Green Chiles and my favorite all time snack, Chicharrones. We found BOTH. In both the larger stores, they had tons of frozen fresh Green Chiles and a hot bar with someone who made Chicharrones each day. In addition to those amazing finds, they had all of the Chile Powder you could imagine along with all of the local New Mexican foods you could ever dream of. It was heaven!

3. Taos Scenic Highway

The byway travels through Chimayo, a community known for the beautiful Santaurio de Chamayo and the El Posito, a hole in the floor of a side chapel filled with healing earth. Along N.M. 76, the byway follows through the creased and crinkled badlands, polka-dotted with scrubby pinon and juniper, with the Jemez Mountains enormous on the horizon.

4. Iconik Coffee

One morning we decided we did not want to make our regular coffee in the Jetboil at the cabin, but to venture through the city and find that boutique little coffee place that would provide us with some black savory coffee excellence. We definitely hit the jackpot. Following our trusty Google Maps, we headed back down through Santa Fe suburbia and ended up in a quaint little place where Iconik Coffee Roasters had their place of business. It was such a neat place with breakfast food and amazing coffee. One morning, you will definitely want to visit this little place, get some coffee and grub and most likely one for the road. The Ethiopian pour over was to die for.

Conclusion and Final Remarks

There you have it. From both sides of the coin our recommendations for this beautiful area of the country. I came at it from the point of what we did that I would recommend that you do, and Gia came at it from the point of view of spending that time with someone you love and care about and taking some parts in that will make you the best memories. Two completely different views and two completely different lists and viewpoints. This way, you can intelligently discuss it with your significant other and plan your trip wisely, to make the most of your time there.

Thank you for joining us! More Adventures to come!

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